Sachs G3 Forks (trial fit)

The XK forks that were on my Magnum had to go. They were less rigid than a wet paper bag full of Twizzlers and I spent almost as much time straightening them out as I did making excuses to my friends about why this bike wasn't done six months ago. I wanted a set that was inexpensive but beefy, and that looked similar to the way nicer MKII forks.

Around that same time, I was working on a Sachs G3 for someone and it's forks caught my eye. They had the look and the quality I was after and (after a quick ebay bid) the price too. Fortunately the measurements were super close and they went on with only a little bit of hassle.

The biggest issue with them is that the brake stop is on the wrong side of the forks and too high up. There are a couple ways around this. You could mount the wheel the opposite way and modify a rear brake plate to catch the stop, or you could do what I did and really test your luck by just welding on a new stop where it's supposed to go.

The new one is on the right, and is shiny. I can't weld that well. I just started on Tuesday. I'll be lucky if this doesn't break off and send me flying over the handlebars and straight into the hospital with a concussion and a broken collarbone or arm or something. I beat on it with a hammer pretty good though and it didn't budge so I might be okay.

The lower bearing race is built into the G3 forks and is fortunately the same size as the Magnum one, so the cups and bearings are still useable. The threaded head tube is longer on the G3 forks though and will for sure need to be cut, but has the same thread pitch and diameter as the Magnum so again, the stock hardware is good. Due to the G3's longer head tube, I had to use this spacer up top, but other than that everything is clean.

I also just scored a legit LTD dash (#073) so I was forced to use the XK top brace. The Sachs top brace has a different style handlebar mount, and the hole spacing is different so it wouldn't work. I had to grind the two holes on either end out so they'd meet the fork tubes, but other than that it went right on.

All in all, the end setup is way better than the XK forks. Granted they aren't hydraulic but at least these won't bend if you look at them the wrong way and they look stock. Pretty clean for a cool $50.

Gilardoni Clutch Cable Routing

The Doppler intake that Treats sells for the Gilardoni kit is nice. It's well cast, unobtrusive and makes for a really clean setup on an E50. Bonus points for the enormous rubber coupler it comes with. Using this intake with a Magnum frame presents some issues, however.

That nice rubber coupler it comes with? Too big to fit in the tiny space between the intake and frame. I ended up using a piece of radiator hose instead. The top of the intake also had to have some material grinded off of it to fit as well. But the biggest problem that I ran into was that the clutch cable sat on the coupler and, due to its tension, put a 'lil bit of force on it. When trying to start the bike, the additional tension on the cable from squeezing the clutch lever would bend the coupler up and down and on one occasion actually pushed the carb and coupler off of the intake.

Arg.

Since the Doppler intake was meant to be used on some scooter, it has a place cast into it specifically for running a cable that I decided to use instead. I ran the clutch cable down the opposite side of the frame into a 90 degree elbow from an old Bing carburetor to keep things clean and adjustable.


The cable then runs across the frame, over the motor to a modified clutch arm.



I had to cut about half of the arm off to keep it from hitting the carburetor when the starter clutch was engaged. I also had to drill another hole for the spring to sit in to provide the appropriate amout of tension in the correct direction.



Ultimately, it worked out really well. The only disadvantage is that because the clutch arm is shorter, you get a little less leverage on it and have to squeeze the clutch lever harder than usual. It also feels a little stiff because of that thick cable being routed through that 90 degree elbow, but at least my carb isn't going to fall off and shit ain't rubbin where shit ain't supposed to rub.

1971 Motobecane 50

After buying this bike in July for my girlfriend, I let it collect dust for 6 months while I selfishly finished school and worked on other projects, but recently I decided to give it the attention that it deserves. It had been through two local owners before I bought it and by the time it fell into my hands, it had a new set of Michelin Gazelles, a Malossi Varplus and a Dellorto 14:12. Unfortunately, it also had a set of dried out crankshaft seals and bearings that made the motor sound like rollerblades on old blacktop.

I installed a new set of bearings and seals (two sets of seals, actually...whoops), took the Varplus to use on my daily rider (I replaced it with a 2 ball stock variator) and replaced the Dellorto with a 12mm Gurtner (because I really, really like them). Right now, its a little over geared running at 13/54 but the low end is still pretty decent and it tops out in the mid 30's. An 11 tooth front sprocket should wake it up a little more.

Cosmetically, this thing is dynamite. The paint is only scratched or nicked in a handful of spots, some of the chrome has some light pitting and unfortunately the right side tank decal is messed up but for being 38 years old, its condition is remarkable. It even has the original tool kit in the original bag.

Eventually I'll get the right sidecovers and decals for them. I've never concerned myself too much with going through a painstakingly anal restoration because that shit's for old dudes, but I'm willing to make an exception for a bike this nice.

More pictures on my Flickr.